Carter SD-10 - tuning and levers (newbie questions)

[Sean McDonald]

First post (and what an amazing forum/community for information about this crazy instrument!)...

I just acquired my first PSG, a new-to-me Carter SD-10. I'm slowly figuring out the technical aspects of this thing, but have a few questions as I try to get things started on the right foot, so to speak:

1. I mapped out the nuts in the changer area to the various pedals and levers, and there is an extra rod attached to the 8 string raise area. Could this be related to the "tuneable splits" that the Carter manual talks about? Typically it seems like extra rod for splits is attached to the 6 string raise area, but in my case there isn't a split on 6 (my RKL raises string 7 F# to G# rather than lowering string 6 G# to F# which is perhaps more common and would then allow a split on string 6). Would it make any sense to have a split rod attached to 6 if the split(s) are happening on string(s) 4 and/or 5 (these are the only viable split options for my copedent, which is the common Emmons E9 with the one difference I mentioned for RKL)?

2. The ends on a few of the nuts in the changer have a marking (just with a felt marker I believe), and I've seen photos of other changers with nuts that have similar marking - what does the markings delineate (in case this can be helpful for me when tuning)?

3. I find it hard to feel the string 2 half-stop, any suggestions for how to best adjust or set that up? I know there is a half-stop nut in the changer and the Carter manual describes it, but even after reading that I can't seem to fully understand the process.

4. My guitar has an after-market LKV lever, and it doesn't have a "stop" like the other horizontal levers, so if I keep raising my leg it will keep lowering the note past the desired half-step lower (5 string B to Bb). Is this normal for a vertical lever, or is it just the way my particular one works (or is there perhaps something wrong or missing with mine)?

5. Most of my levers (including the vertical) are "floppy" at the hinge, and I'd rather firm them up if possible (most helpful for the vertical so it isn't sitting on my thigh, but also would rather have some resistance on the horizontal levers). I understand Carters use some type of roll pin (rather than a nut and bolt type of attachment) at the hinge, and some have suggested it is possible to squeeze the sides of the pin with pliers or vice grips to restore tension (at least temporarily). I gently tried that (didn't want to damage the new-to-me guitar), and it didn't help. Any other suggestions that aren't too intrusive (otherwise I'll just leave it as is and get used to the floppy levers)?

Thanks!

[Richard Sinkler]

The extra rod is on string 8, not 7? I see no reason for string 8. If on string 7, it might be a compensator. Some guitars have "cabinet drop" , where a string unaffected by any pressed pedals will go flat. The most common one I have seen is when pressing the A pedal. Or both A and B, the 7th string will drop slightly in pitch. And the compensator rod (normally added to the A pedal) will pull that string up to be in tune with the pedals.

The half stop can be stiffened up by removing the lower return spring from where it attaches to the finger, cutting off one loop, bending the end to fit on the finger, and installing it back on the finger. Loosen the tension on the 2nd string to make the spring removal easier. That stiffens up the half stop.

[Richard Sinkler]

Tuning the half stop:
1. Tune string open to D#
2.tune the full lower to the C# using the nut on the 2nd string.
3. lower the string with the lever until you feel the half stop. Use the half stop tuning nut to tune up the D note.

[Christian Pacifico]

Commenting on this because I’m also interested in question #2 on the tuning nut markings

[Richard Sinkler]

The colored nuts are typically compensators or split tuning rods.

[Sean McDonald]

Thanks everyone for the helpful replies so far!

Just an update for point 1…upon further inspection, the “extra” rod on string 8 raise area is connected to the C pedal, but it had been turned full counterclockwise so that it’s effect was made inert. I guess a previous owner had wanted to raise the sting 8 E to F# with the C pedal (to be in concert with string 4), but then decides not to use it (my understanding is that this change leads to a lot of broken 8 strings). Thanks to Tucker here on the forum for his insight into this!

[Richard Sinkler]

I have seen some who raise 8 to F#. Not many, but some.

[Sean McDonald]

Thanks again Richard!

Any thoughts out there on points 4 (is it normal for a vertical lever not to have any form of mechanical “stop”) or 5 (any way to increase tension at the hinge to cure “floppy” levers on these Carter guitars)?

[Richard Sinkler]

All pedals and levers should have an adjustable hard stop.

I have a D10, and my LKR is "floppy" and just hangs down. I actually like it like that, as it makes it easier to move out of the way when moving my leg over to play the C6 pedals. The roll pins can be replaced, but For me. The loose levers would be fine.